Commission Painting and Pricing

Yes, I do take commissions.

Standard Infantry - $10 Per Model
Large Base Infantry, cavalry, and light warjacks - $20 Per Model
Large Monsters or warjacks - $40 Per Model
Vehicles - $100 Per Model
Forge World and Collossals - prices vary

These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.

What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.

Miniature Slideshow - Models I have painted

About Me

I paint models and have been doing it since I was 12. Over the years I have learned tons of tricks and painted loads of models. I have ran a very successful Miniatures studio, and owned a Retail Game Store. After closing those, I decided to get a little smaller with the operation and I am back to a one man show.

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9/23/08

Storm Lancer Tutorial Completed

Okay, you guys asked for it, here it is. No, not a Youtube video, but a step by step tutorial

Storm Lancers -
Step 1:
I normally paint inside out,but since this model will contain a minimum of two different washes, I opted to go with an alternative method. Paint the bigger areas first.
Dry Brush entire model with Adeptus Battle Grey. Pay particular attentionto any showing parts of the horse.

Step 1 colors used - Adeptus Battle Grey (GW)

Step 2:
Paint all armor areas with Chainmail. Neatness is not so much a factor here as we will be repainting over a few areas in the next step I start from the top down ensuring each and every part that I want to be "armor" is painted that way

Step 2 colors used - Chainmail (GW)
Step 3:
Okay, now neatness counts. On the test model, I noticed the P3 paints do not cover silver so well. The metal shines thru, and I want a nice dark base, so time to "black out" all of the areas that are to be blue. I know from experience that Burnished Gold does not cover light areas too well either, so we'll black those out too. On the shoulder pads and, horse head, and flank armor, blackout just the insides with black, leaving the silver raised edges showing. Also, take this time to repaint any primered areas that have chipped during handling. I use Vallejo Game Color Black due to the nice consistancy.
Step 3 colors used - Chaos Black - Vallejo Game Color

Step 4:
Adding the Cygnar Blue is super easy, but again, neatness counts. Paint the inside of the head and flank armor, should guards, barding and the front of the shield with Cygnar Blue Base. This goes over black in a single smooth coat.

Step 4 colors used- Cygnar Blue Base (P3)

Step 5:
Okay, now the very last basecoating stage! At this point we are about 80% of the way done with the models! Using Burnished Gold, paint over the last of the blacked out areas! Make sure to hit the Cygnar falcon on the shield, shoulder and front bridle plate! Again, neatness counts here BIG TIME!!!!!!!
Step 5 Colors used - Burnished Gold (GW)

This is the stopping point for the night. No real back breakers here, and I spent 2 hours clock time painting (including smoke breaks and picture taking) Tomorrow starts the real fun as we start our washes, and finishing details!
Currently we have 5 colors used, but the last steps should increase that about 3-5 more colors!

Step 6 (1200 pm)
Wash entire model with Badab Black Wash. No need to thin it, as it is already thin enough.
Also, neatness isn't much of a factor here. Then Wait for the wash to dry.
Step 6 colors used - Badab Black Wash (GW)

Step 7
Grab your detail brush, as neatness is key on this step. Take Bestial Brown (Beasty Brown)
and pick out all the quilted armor and leather straps. Neatness is paramount here, because
for the most part, all the other areas are done!
Step 7 Colors Used - Bestial Brown (GW) or Beasty Brown (Vallejo)

Step 8
Again, detail brush and neatness rule supreme on this step. Grab your brown ink / wash
and start coating the areas painted in the last step. You can water the ink down a bit, but
we want a good dark coat! once that is done, timeto sit and wait for the ink to dry.
Step 8 Colors used - Brown Ink (GW) or Devlan Mud (GW)

Step 9
Part A
Now for the most time consuming part. Multi Stage Highlights on the blue parts of the armor
This is really easy enough. Starting at the bottom of the armor plate, leave a small gap
where the Cygnar Blue Base was washed showing and lightly paint upwards to the top of the armor plate.

Part B
Now mix a 50/50 mix of Cygnar Blue Base and Cygnar Blue Highlight, and apply about 2/3 of the way out on the plate.
Part C
Now add another smaller part at the top rounded edge of the plate with Cygnar Blue Highlight, and the highlights are done.
Part D
Reapply Cygnar Blue Base to all of the raised portions of the blue barding,and then apply a very thin line of Cygnar Blue Highlight to the Barding and that part is done.
Step 9 Colors used - Cygnar Blue Base and Cygnar Blue Highlight (P3)

Step 10



Repaint the Burnished Gold on the Cygnar symbols on the shield, horse chest bridle, and shoulder, and the model is done! Base and matte varnish, and then go play games!

5 comments:

Shane Irons said...

Is that 2 hours to base coat this one fig with pictures, or did you do the other 4 horses? If so that is freaking amazing, blazing speed.

1havok12 said...

O.O
/watching and waiting

IronWarboss said...

2 hours total for all 4 models.

Shane Irons said...

/cry

1havok12 said...

Thanks for taking the extra tme and taking all the photos with dialouge. It helps.