Large Base Infantry, cavalry, and light warjacks - $20 Per Model
Large Monsters or warjacks - $40 Per Model
Vehicles - $100 Per Model
Forge World and Collossals - prices vary
These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.
What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.
I paint models and have been doing it since I was 12. Over the years I have learned tons of tricks and painted loads of models. I have ran a very successful Miniatures studio, and owned a Retail Game Store. After closing those, I decided to get a little smaller with the operation and I am back to a one man show.
The Dark Angels are coming, the Dark Angels are coming!
Okay, by now, we have all seen the pictures of the new Dark Angels models hitting the shelves next week. In the January White Dwarf, there is a 80 billion step walkthrough on how to paint bone armor. Well, after the wifey saw the DW Knight models, she expressed an interest, and up until now, I have always hated painting Bleached Bone armor.
Well, I put together a Tactical Marine and decided to bust out with a step by step on how to paint Bone Armor.......
Step 1 - Prime White or Army Painter Bone.
I personally prefer priming in black, but with an overall bone colored model needs to be primed in a light color. You could use the Army Painter Bone color, but since it will not dry rough, the initial coat will not take a wash very well, so I went with a white primer instead.
Step 2 - Base coat a very thin coat of Ushabti Bone (GW). For mine, I used Menoth White Base (P3), as it has a richer tone than the Ushabti.
Step 3 - Water Seraphim Sepia 2 parts water, 1 part wash, and wash the bone areas of the model. Once this is done, use a straight wash between the major armor plates. Let this dry, and then re-coat the bone. With a 50/50 mix of white and bone, highlight the edges. At this point, the bone is all done.
Step 4 - Black (Abaddon Black GW) out the areas that will get metallics painted on them. In this models case, the entire right shoulder pad is blacked out, as it is a Deathwatch pad. The left pad has a Crux Terminatus, signifying a veteran, so this was painted in White Scar (GW). Paint Leadbelcher (GW) or a gold/bronze over desired areas and wash with Nuln Oil (GW). I create a watered down grey wash, using Dawnstone (GW) by mixing 4 parts water, 1 part paint. I threw a dab of Nuln Oil into the grey wash to get some settling agent in it, and then washed the Crux.
Step 5 - Using a three stage red highlighting process, I painted the pistol and chainsword casings, starting with Skorne Red Base (P3), then Khador Red Base (P3). I used Evil Sunz Scarlet (GW) as the final layered, color, and then edge highlighted with Troll Slayer Orange (GW). This red was then washed lightly with Carroburg Crimson (GW). I painted the eyes with a 2 stage red -Evil Sunz Scarlet, highlighted with Troll Slayer Orange, ending with a light Carroburg wash. The chest eagle and shoulder pad trim were painted in Caliban Green (GW), highlighted by Iosan Green (P3), washed with Biel Tan Green (GW).
Final Picture, but still without a backpack, as that will be painted separately.
It sounds complicated, but is really simple. I really enjoyed painting this guy, and look forward to cranking out some DW terminators soon.