Commission Painting and Pricing

Yes, I do take commissions.

Infantry is $10 a model, regardless of size, up to 40mm round base.
Large Infantry and Cavalry is $20 a model, up to 50mm round base.
Vehicles are based on size:
$100 for 40k dread sized (60mm base)
$150 for 40k Rhino chassis or similar, smaller fliers (Storm Talon)
$300 for 40k Land Raider, larger fliers (Storm Raven).
Forge World and Collossals - prices vary

These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.

What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.

Miniature Slideshow - Models I have painted

About Me

I paint models and have been doing it since I was 12. Over the years I have learned tons of tricks and painted loads of models. I have ran a very successful Miniatures studio, and owned a Retail Game Store. After closing those, I decided to get a little smaller with the operation and I am back to a one man show.

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3/31/13

What??? Another Tutorial? That's like 3 in a row!!!!

Well, I guess I have been on a bit of a roll lately.  First off, with the amount of models I have painted, all to a "way better than tabletop" quality.  Actually, if I were doing the levels thing, they would all be level 2/3ish. Secondly, with my blog posts.  I have found that I am starting to think about snapping pics as I go through the processes and want to document them.  For the past year, it has not been this way.

So here we go again - pretty simple one, but one of the hardest colors (or lack thereof) to paint effectively and have it look good.  White.

Here is the issue with white.   It is hard to get it to look smooth.  Not terribly, but time consuming yes.  And most painters (or at least the ones I have talked to) have an issue shading white.

Okay, so here is what I did to get the white helms on my Blood Drinker Terminators





I went with the white helmets because, thus far, I have yet to paint a red helmet, and will avoid it if I can.  Looking at the pictures in the codex and only, the red helmets on the terminators make them just blend into the rest of the army.

So to get the helmets white, here are the steps I took:

Step 1 - Prime it white!  I assembled the models, and left the heads off, still attached to the sprues.  I primed the models themselves in red, and then primed the heads in white.  You don't have to do this, but it does make it easier to get the helmets to a pure, very smooth, white. If you prime in colors, or in black, be prepared to use paint on primer or a really light (think foundation) paint to get the undercoat back to a white friendly color.



Step 2 - Wash with blue.  I used the old GW Asurmen Blue (Drakenhoff Nightshade).  You want to shade with blue as it is a "cold" shade, and feels the most natural when viewing.  I have seen white shaded with black, and it is not pretty....makes the white almost look dirty.


Step 3 - Using heavily thinned white paint, repaint the areas white, being SUPER careful to leave the blue washed white primer in the cracks.  I say super careful as if you accidentally cover the cracks, you either have to paint wash back into that crack to clean it up, or bust out a quick black-line to salvage it.  Repeat this until the white looks smooth. If you notice the three "boxes" left on the cheek - the Indomitus Pattern Tactical Dreadnought Armour has three vents on either side of the helmet, which were strangely not molded into the helmet.  To help from just having a plain white area, and to break up that long dark "patch", I painted vertical lines to give the appearance of the vents.  In the squad picture, you can see these very clearly. The very last step was the eyes.  I used Cygnar base to block out the eye, Cygnar highlight toward the front of the lens, and then a white dot towards the back of the lens.  Finished this up with a Asurmen wash, again, being very careful.

Now just glue the helmet in place and off they go!!!!



As a side note, I found a cool tutorial for painting helmet lenses that I want to try out.  Might do this sometime later, maybe when I am doing the re-work on my Space Wolves!

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