Commission Painting and Pricing

Yes, I do take commissions.

Standard Infantry - $10 Per Model
Large Base Infantry, cavalry, and light warjacks - $20 Per Model
Large Monsters or warjacks - $40 Per Model
Vehicles - $100 Per Model
Forge World and Collossals - prices vary

These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.

What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.

Miniature Slideshow - Models I have painted

About Me

I paint models and have been doing it since I was 12. Over the years I have learned tons of tricks and painted loads of models. I have ran a very successful Miniatures studio, and owned a Retail Game Store. After closing those, I decided to get a little smaller with the operation and I am back to a one man show.

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7/21/13

So a funny thing happened while I was waiting for paint to dry

Working on some Skorne models tonight, I was chatting with a longtime friend on Facebook about mini wargaming tables.

He said that he would like, in the future, my thoughts on building tables, and so since I am in a paint induced haze (paint was drying) I threw together this little gem on Evernote to share with him. His shop is working on an expansion and he would like to carry and support mini wargaming, and he knows how important the tables are.

Most of this was spurred because I built a 4x6 topper to use here at the house, and threw the pictures on Facebook.

I will post a walk-through of that in the next few days.

Permanent 4x8

8 2x4x8ft framing timber
1 1/2 4ftx8ft sheet plywood
3 1/2 or 1/4 2ftx4ft plywood "panel"
2 4x4x8ft posts
3 inch framing screws
1 quart textured paint (primer)
1 quart base color (matched to current paint range)
1 pint highlight color (matched to current paint range)
2 cans spray matte sealer
1 shaker static grass
1 large white pva glue
*wood filler

Topper 4x8

5 1x4x8ft framing lumber
1 1/2 4ftx8ft sheet plywood
1 1/2 inch framing screws
1 quart textured paint (primer)
1 quart base color (matched to current paint range)
1 pint highlight color (matched to current paint range)
2 cans spray matte sealer
1 shaker static grass
1 large white pva glue
*wood filler

Suggested tools:
Cordless drill
1/8 inch Drill bit
palm sander
circular saw
*1/2 counter sink bit

The materials list for a 4x6 is pretty much the same.  For the Permanent 4x6, reduce the plywood panels to 2. * denotes option for covering countersunk screw heads

The topper should fit over a folding card (banquet) table (I use one like this during building my topper http://www.lowes.com/pd_85616-88126-80235_4294715773__?productId=3353700&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=), as long as the dimensions of the folding table are smaller than the internal dimensions of the topper.

For table size selection, best to know the size of the games being played.  For 40k, standard is now 1500-1750, and will fit nicely on a 4x6.  Fantasy is standard 2000 points, and will fit on a 4x8, but can be a bit tight on a 4x6. Any larger games would require a 4x8 table.  Warmachine/Hordes uses a 4x4, so a 4x8 would fit 2 of those games side by side.

I would suggest using the 4x8 topper method for your tables. If you are expanding space, then buy tables that will fit your planned topper sizes (suggestion - Use a 6 foot folding banquet table for the 4x8 topper) The toppers can then be removed when not needed, and stored, on their ends, in a corner of the store, strapped to the wall so no one gets hurt by falling toppers.  They are pretty sturdy, and not want to tip, barring someone putting all of their weight on the end of the table. This means not wasting space during a pre-release or large card event with empty miniature games tables and vice versa. Build a few extra in case you start attracting a large mini crowd, and you can have staff pull them out as needed.

Average turn out for a 40k or Fantasy tournament can vary, but generally, you will not have an issue getting 8 players.  Minimum tables to have is 4.  This is why the toppers are so handy - build 8, keep 4 out all the time, and pull the others out and use them as needed.  Get a few free standing "closets" to store your terrain so that it does not get battered up in bins.

For WH40k, currently, it is possible to have 3 terrain pieces of terrain per 2ft x 2ft sector on a table. 4x8 has 8 sectors, so 24 pieces of terrain. For Fantasy, it is still 1 piece per sector, at the most. Games Workshop has a lot of really awesome kits for both the 40k and the Fantasy ranges, and these would work well for other skirmish tabletop games as well.

To make the terrain more durable, you will need the following:
Hot glue gun
Playground sand
white pva glue
1/4 2ftx4ft press-board panel
Palm sander
Primer spray

Basically, build the terrain piece, and then trace the outline onto the press-board panel, leaving about 1 to 1.5 inches outside of the terrain piece.  Using the palm sander, bevel the edges of the mounting board.  Using the hot glue gun, mount the terrain piece to the board.  Once dry, paint the pva glue onto the mounting board, leaving the beveled edge showing. Pour playground sand (best to use a large tub to "dip" the mounted terrain piece and board into) onto the mounting board and let it dry fully. Dump any excess sand, and then prime with the spray.  Paint to taste.  I normally use a colored spray for the mounting board that is close to the table that the terrain is for.  then I use an airbrush to paint the base colors onto the building or whatever is mounted on the board.