Eating Paint since 1986!: Let's make it dirty! - Simple application of weathering powder.

Commission Painting and Pricing

Yes, I do take commissions.

Infantry are $15 a model, regardless of size, up to 32mm round base.

Large Infantry and Cavalry are $30 a model, up to 50mm round base.

Extra Large Infantry are $45 a model, up to 60mm round base.

Vehicles are based on size:

$150 for 40k dread sized (60mm base)

$200 for 40k Rhino chassis or similar, smaller fliers (Storm Talon)

$400 for 40k Land Raider, larger fliers (Storm Raven).

Forge World and Collossals - prices vary

These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.

What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.

2/27/17

Let's make it dirty! - Simple application of weathering powder.

Okay, the last thing to do on the Sicaran is to make it dirty. The first 15 legion tactical squad I have done is paint chipped and then weathered using Tamiya Weathering Master Tamiya 87079 Weathering Master A Set - Sand, Light Sand, Mud.

I used the mud color, just like my infantry. Okay, so the first step, is of course, to make sure your model is ready to VARNISH. Yep, that is right. In order to get the weathering powders to stick, you have to matte varnish the model first. I run Vallejo Color Satin Varnish Premium RC Colors through my airbrush. I ran this through and then cleaned out the airbrush thoroughly.

Once the model is dry, grab your supplies. The Weathering Master kit comes with an applicator that is the same as used for eye shadow. I destroyed this weathering up infantry. So I went to Wal-Mart and grabbed up some makeup wedges. Cheap and will work for what I need them for. You will also need some rubbing alcohol as a set agent, and then grab up a CLEAN large or medium drybrush.

Take the wedge and load it up with powder. Remember the adage less is more. And remember how the tracks move, as you will want to weather that heavier than other areas. I focused on the tracks first, and the armor plates around the tracks.

I then applied a light dusting of powder all of the top of the tank. All of the bottom parts, like going under the front hull, up the rear under the engines, I went heavy on the powder.

Once the majority of the powder is applied in the heavy areas, I worked it into the smaller cracks using the drybrush. I repeated this a couple of time, all over, until I was happy with the coverage.

I loaded the airbrush up with alcohol, turned the air down to 10psi, and shot the whole tank with alcohol. After this was dry, I applied the matte varnish over the model again.

The matte varnish reduces the impact of the powder, so if you want it to retain that heavy dirty look, or apply really heavy powder, apply the alcohol right after applying it, using an eye dropper. This works great if you are applying powder mud effects. Once that fully dries, then you can matte varnish again.

Okay, go out and make some dirty models!