Eating Paint since 1986!: Modelling Review - Blood and Skull Rhino Tracks

Commission Painting and Pricing

Yes, I do take commissions.

Infantry are $15 a model, regardless of size, up to 32mm round base.

Large Infantry and Cavalry are $30 a model, up to 50mm round base.

Extra Large Infantry are $45 a model, up to 60mm round base.

Vehicles are based on size:

$150 for 40k dread sized (60mm base)

$200 for 40k Rhino chassis or similar, smaller fliers (Storm Talon)

$400 for 40k Land Raider, larger fliers (Storm Raven).

Forge World and Collossals - prices vary

These prices include all assembly and basing. If you already have models assembled, primed, or want to do the basing yourself, please contact me and we can talk about reducing the price.

What you get for your money - models will be cleaned of any mold lines and flash, assembled, primed, painted, based, and matte varnished for protection. Will always be beyond the 3 color minimum for tournaments, and will include the little details that we all want. I will paint an army for you that I would be proud to play with myself. I will do custom color schemes, as well as traditional "from the book" schemes. I only have one level, and that is fully painted.

9/15/17

Modelling Review - Blood and Skull Rhino Tracks

I am continuing with my series of articles on the Blood and Skulls Industries products I pick up. This time, I went with a set of Liberator Pattern 040 Tank Treads for a Rhino APC for my wife's Thousand Sons army. I used the Rhino chassis from a Baal predator I have laying around (blasphemy) as of the cool front plate being a single vision slit.

You can check out my video review of the tracks themselves here.

I started off with a single side assembled on the Rhino. The tracks are NOT omnidirectional, there is a side for left and right. I figured out what side to use and started dry fitting the parts to get the best alignment. The Rhino kit has a couple of locator pins, so it took a few minutes and some blue tack to lay them all out.

And here is what I got from it. In the image, I numbered the tracks as I put them on. I know that it seems strange to end a track between the road wheels, but it was the best layout to provide with a little wiggle room to get the spacing correct.

I started with the 8 link section first, running from the back of the first road wheel, across two and ending right before the fourth. Glued to the 8 link section and to the rearward roadwheels.

I attached a 4 link section. at either end, I added a single link, and then the slope up got a set of 3 links on either side. Single tracks go around the outside road wheel, and then into the body.

On the second link on both front and back, I had to shave an 1/8th of an inch off to get them to sit flat. This picture is from the dry fit, so the tracks were still misaligned.